Phulkari Treasures

I went visiting Adesh's relatives in the interiors of Punjab during the second leg of the vacation. It was hard core Punjabi culture at its full. Since I was visiting them first time after our wedding, (though its seems a lifetime ago to me!), the ladies were all decked up to welcome me. And I, the supposedly new bride, was dressed in summer casuals. Thank God I was in right mind to dress in Salwar Kameez. Anyways, back to the relatives. They welcomed me with Phulkaris, my favorite. And I was already loving them. Generation old phulkaris adorned by these beautiful ladies.

Each Chachi had a different story to tell about her phulkari. How and when it was made? Who gifted it to her? What was the occasion? I was enthralled. How I love these tales, they did not even know.

Since it was peak summer, with no rains and long power cuts, the hand fans or pakhhis were out. These pakhhis were also embroidered with phulkari and had been in the household since ages. The ladies still make these hand fans on their own, and they even showed me a couple of these with work in progress. I could not help requesting them to make some for me as well. I was going crazy and Adesh was just laughing at me.

In the evening when we left I still had those beautiful treasures in my eyes.

Travelogue: Sarahan & Sangla- V

Day 5: 19th June

We were all set to bid adieu the beautiful Sangla Valley. Our bus left at 6.30am. We bought tickets till Narkanda, as we planned to stay overnight at Thanedhar.

We reached Narkanda at around 2pm and after lunch at the New Himalayan Dhaba, we caught a bus for Thanedhar. Thanedhar is a small town around 18kms from Narkanda. It is the apple country with apple orchards and cherry trees spread as far as the eye can see.

At Thanedhar, we stayed at Hotel Sunset View. It is small guest house run by a local family. Complete homely environment. We paid couple of hundreds extra for a room with a view, and it was absolutely worth it. The sunset was beautiful. The placed lived up to its name.


There is another property of Banjara Camps in Thanedhar, but the rates were steep for us.

Thanedhar is a sleepy town with complete silence post 8pm. Not a soul on the road. There is not much to do here, except for strolling around.

Samuel Stokes had introduced apple plantations in this region, and it gave the town's economy a boost. It is still the major source of income for the locals.


Day 6: 20th June

After a heavy breakfast of Aloo Paranthas we caught a bust to Simla, from right outside our doorstep! The luxury of a small town. Another interesting thing that we observed... any courier, of any size, to be sent to the nearby village is done through the local bus without any escort. Just tell the driver/ conductor the receipents name and village, and delivery is guaranteed. Social networking at its best!

We also witnessed a procession carrying the local diety. Himachal is after all the Devbhumi- Land of Gods, with every village having its own presiding diety.


We reached Shimla at 2.30 pm and caught a bus for Chandigarh. We were already feeling the heat. From Snow covered mountains to burning plains, it was quite a transition.

Finally, we reached Chandigarh at 7.00pm and one week of holiday in 'Wonderland' came to an end. Our first leg of chutti was over. And we were headed for our hometown, Patiala the next day.

Travelogue: Sarahan & Sangla-IV

Day 3: 17th June

After a goodnight sleep tucked in quilts, we got up all charged up. After breakfast, we went around exploring the small town. It was a bright sunny morning.

We decided to trek up 2 kms to the village of Kamru. We could see our destination up on the hill, with the local temple being the highest point. The trek was through a narrow path amidst apple and walnut orchards. The last 500m was too steep and I was out of breath! But the view from temple was worth all the breaths lost. The temple, like all others in the area, had a Buddhist monastery and the Hindu temple in the same complex. Also, through the complex there is the route to the old palace of Bushahr dynasty. It is a seven storey wooden structure, and only the temple committee can enter it. general public is forbidden. In this complex also, leather goods are forbidden and you have to cover your head and remove your shoes. The temple caretaker patiently explained the history and the local customs. He also happily posed for us !

The caretaker told us that in a certain month in the summers, the locals go for a pilgrimage of Kinner Kailash. They do a parikrama on foot, and the entire trek lasts for seven days. I was impressed.


After spending half an hour there, we trekked down and enquired about the bus to Chhitkul. Chhitkul is about 26kms from Sangla, and it is the last Indian village on the old Hindustan Tibet Road. The bus from Reckong Peo to Chhitkul leaves Sangla at around 12pm. It is a 2 hour journey through Batseri and Rakcham villages. The view of the valley is heavenly. It can not be expressed in words and you have to experience it.


The bus stays in Chhitkul for 10 minutes and returns back. There is a dhaba there, that proudly calls itself as 'Hindustan ka aakhri dhaba'. There are old houses of wood and stones, and you can experience the Kinnauri culture to its core. The Indo- Chinese border is 60 kms from there.

Another bus for to Chhitkul leaves Sangla at 4pm and stays overnight at Chhitkul to return next morning at 6am.

We reached back Sangla at 3.30pm and after lunch at "Tast of Tibet", a Tibetan eatery serving Veg thalis as well, we headed for our siesta. The momos at this place were yummy. We returned in the evening for a cup of coffee and were rewarded with creamy home-style coffee with loads of milk. The Punjabi in me just loved it. You can enjoy the hustle-bustle of the town sitting in the balcony of the restaurant, sipping coffee, feasting on momos and thukpa and reading a book.

The dinners were at Baspa Guest House. Home cooked food for us. We were loving this place, and dreaming of settling to a peaceful life here.


Day 4: 18th June

We planned to trek to Batseri village, which was 5 kms from Sangla. We trekked down to the riverside. There is Sangla Nag temple in the village downside. After crossing the Baspa river, there is a small hydel power project. You reach a small village named Azaad Kashmir, after crossing the hydel project. There is river on one side, and pine forests on the towering mountains on the other side. It was definitely an adventure.



The locals kept guiding us and we crossed the Government Trout Fish Farm. Suddenly, we encountered a stretch full of stones and rocks. Actually, there had been a landslide a couple of weeks earlier and the normal path was blocked. Our hotel person was not aware and he had encouraged us to go for the trek. The original path is supposed to be a straight one along the river side. We crossed this stretch and were exhausted. There was some relief in terms of a stretch of green grass. But another 100 metres and we encountered another rocky stretch. Fearing that we would be lost in the wild, we took a u-turn. We came across some locals who asked us to follow them to Batseri, but we regretfully declined. We still needed some energy to trek back up to Sangla.

Finally after 3 hours, with water and cereal bars devoured for energy, we were back in the main street of Sangla. We were tired and we were hungry. And we barged into Tast of Tibet. All we could think of was FOOD.

After a short nap, we were back for our coffee and momos. I also tried the pan cakes at the neighbouring Sonu Cafe, a favourite of foreign tourists, but was disappointed. We decided to retire early as we planned to catch an early morning bus next day. We were on our journey back.


Bus fare to Chhitkul: Rs 15 per person
Meal for two at Tast of Tibet: Rs 100- Rs 150
Stay at Baspa Guest House: Rs 550 - Rs 850 per night
A hospitable host and great customer service: Free

Travelogue: Sarahan & Sangla- III

Day 2: 16th June

We got up early in the morning to the view of rising sun from our room's window. It was time to explore the small hill town of Sarahan. We trekked to the Pheasantry only to discover that it was closed for the season. We trekked further 2 kms and realised we need to trek back also!

While trekking down, we met some locals who guided us the shortcuts. We landed in the compound of the palace of Bushahr dynasty, the current king being Virbhadra Singh (the political biggie). One of the locals explained to us the legend of Bhimakali Temple and tales about the royals.


We reached Hotel Shri Khand and headed straight for thr breakfast. After shower, we decided to pay obeisance at Bhimakali Temple. It has magnificent architecture. The wooden carvings are just beautiful. The main temple building does not allow you to carry any leather product. After the darshan, we bid adieu to Sarahan and boarded bust to Jeori. We had planned to take bus to Sangla from Jeori.

We reached Jeori at around 11.30am. We were told that the bus to Sangla will come at 12.30pm. We waited on the road itself. Eventually one bus came at 1.00pm, but for Reckong Peo. We boarded it nonetheless, as we decided to carry on till Karcham and from there take any bus or taxi to Sangla. We were short of patience to wait any more.

It was a cliffhanger ride up and down the mountains and valleys. We crossed many hydro-electric projects being constructed by Jaypee group. At a couple of points the traffic was stopped as there was blasting going on. We observed that the Pradhan Mantri Gram Sarak Yojna was on full swing here, connecting remote villages.

There is a small temple of Taranda Maa on the roadside. Every vehicle stops there and our bus also stopped. We went to the temple and paid our respects.



We de-boarded at Karcham and fortunately for us, just then another bus for Sangla came. We were on our way to our final destination. At Karcham we had crossed the hill, and were now in the valley of Baspa river. Earlier we were travelling with the Satluj river. In fact, Baspa is a tributary of Satluj. Another 45 minutes and we were in Sangla. It was 6.00pm and it had started to rain.

Our place of stay, Baspa Guest House (recommended by Lonely Planet) was near Bus Stand and we rushed to the safety of a cosy room. It was chilly and we needed our woollens. Finally, we lay down to starighten our backs, and it was time for some pet pooja.


Places to see at Sarahan:
- Bhimakali Temple
- Pheasantry
- View point
- Rangori village (4kms from Sarahan): has some old houses


One night stay at Hotel Shrikhand: Rs 1100 to Rs 1500 for double room

Route taken: Sarahan-Jeori-Wangtoo- Karcham- Sangla

Travelogue: Sarahan & Sangla-II

Here is the first in the series of our trip to Sangla and Sarahan.

Day 1: 15th June
Chandigarh- Sarahan

Route taken: Chandigarh- Dharampur- Shimla- Narkanda- Rampur- Jeori- Sarahan

We left Chandigarh at 6.20 am by HRTC Deluxe bus- Chandigarh to Rekong Peo. It was early morning and we were sleepy, but too excited to sleep. I was enjoying the ride uphill and Adesh dozed off.

We stopped for breakfast at Dharampur. It was a dirty non-descript dhaba, and we decided to skip the breakfast being offered. Dharampur has the famous Giani ka Dhaba, which serves awesome paranthas, and we were very disappointed that the bus had not stopped there. We were already missing our car.

Anyways, we continued and the next stop was Shimla at 11am. We could see the "Toy Train" from Kalka to Shimla chugging away. It was starting to get hot. As we started uphill from Shimla, the weather became cooler. We crossed Kufri, Shogi, Theog to reach Narkanda at 1.00pm. It was lunch time.

Once you cross Shimla, the apple orchards start. There are also cherry orchards. It was so beautiful. A completely different world.

After lunch, we started off again. Our next stop was Rampur, and we got down there. It was 3.00pm. We were told to take the bus to Sarahan which was to be at 3.30pm. We waited till 4.30pm and there was no sign of bus. So we decided to take a taxi to Sarahan, though a little costlier.

We crossed Jhakri power project, Jeori and reached Sarahan at 5.30pm. Finally, our journey for the first day ended.

We had booked Himachal Tourism's Hotel Shrikhand, and were glad to see the neat and clean room. It was drizzling and we were eager to explore. A stroll around the hotel, and we decided to call it a day. We decided to have an early dinner and headed for the restaurant. The steward assigned to us, Neetu, took our order and recommended a local delicacy, 'Kheroo'. It was tadke wala curd. Also, the desert kheer and a Shrikhand special. They were yummmmm!!


After another stroll, we retired to our room. It was cold there and our woollens were on. We planned to go for an early morning trek and tired as we were from the journey, we just hit the bed.



Bus fare- Chandigarh to Rampur: Rs 450/- for two
Taxi fare- Rampur to Sarahan: Rs 700/-
Lunch at New Himalaya Dhaba, Narkanda: Two veg thalis, two fresh lime sodas, one water bottled: Rs 100/-
This dhaba has decent food and more important, clean washrooms.

Trvelogue: Sarahan & Sangla -I

We had been planning for a fortnight vacation for over six months. It was to be in the end of May or beginning of June. Eventually we planned it for the second half of June. Since the economic downturn, we were contemplating whether to go ahead with the planned vacation or not. But what the hell! Approved leaves of 15 days are hard to come by, for me as well as Adesh. So we thought of 'budget holiday'.

One week of budget travel and one week at home in Punjab.

We decided to go to Sangla Valley in Himachal Pradesh. And, we planned to travel by Himachal Roadways bus.

The itinerary was:

14th June: Gurgaon- Chandigarh
15th June: Chandigarh- Sarahan
16th June: Sarahan- Sangla
17th June: Sangla
18th June: Sangla
19th June: Sangla- Thanedhar
20th June: Thanedhar- Chandigarh

Lonely Planet and K Srinivasan's blog helped a lot in planning the trip.

The stay was in budget guest houses and Himachal Tourism hotel. We booked the Himachal Tourism hotel in Sarahan beforehand through their website. The bus schedule at HRTC website also helped, and my brother got the bus ticket booked in advance from Chandigarh.

The bags were packed. The excitement was high. And, we were raring to say- "Let's Go!!!"